Feb 11

The Bourbon World Loses a Great Man – Truman Cox

Truman Cox Master Distiller

Photo courtesy Buffalo Trace Distillery

Sometimes life can be unfair, and good people are taken from us far too early.  This is unfortunately what has happened to Truman Cox, who has passed away at age 44.

Truman was the master distiller of the A. Smith Bowman Distillery.  Truman’s background was in chemistry, earning his Bachelor of Science in Chemistry from the University of Central Florida.  In 2004, he became the Quality Chemist for Buffalo Trace Distillery.  After working underneath many of the most innovative master distillers in the industry, Truman earned the role of master distiller at A. Smith Bowman.

I had the pleasure of meeting Truman for the first time at Whiskey Fest 2011.  I wrote a post about it and shared an anecdote about a bourbon thief trying to steal a bottle, only to have his plan thwarted by a man “the size of a truck”.  That man happened to be Truman.

The second time I met Truman was at the A. Smith Bowman distillery.  Despite being in the middle of their busiest two weeks of the year, Truman gave me a private tour of the facility without hesitation.  I was blown away by his kindness, knowledge, and overall likability.  He went far and above my expectations to ensure that I got the most out of my tour.

Truman’s passion for the art of distillation certainly shows up in the whiskey he made.  John J. Bowman bourbon is still my #4 rated whiskey (#2 bourbon) and his other expressions are not far behind.

Although I knew Truman far less than many other people, it is quite evident by the number of blog posts, tweets, and Facebook shares that he was loved and respected both in and out of the whiskey community.  My thoughts over the past couple of days have been with his wife and daughter who I hope can find some peace in knowing that Truman touched a lot of people in this world.

 

-Ryan

Feb 09

Hedonism Scotch – Review

Hedonism ScotchHedonism Limited Release Grain Scotch Whisky

86 Proof

Price Point: $95 – $105 for 750 ML

Distiller: Compass Box Whisky Co.

 

Background

As I’ve stated here many times, I love whiskey for its diversity.  When distillers and blenders reach out past the ordinary boundaries of whiskey, sometimes they achieve something special.  And sometimes, they don’t.

Compass Box is a company that takes premium whiskies from around Scotland, and blends them together to create some very interesting expressions.  They are the masterminds behind The Peat Monster and Spice Tree, two of my favorites.  Hedonism caught my eye, with a label promising “Richly textured flavours of vanilla and toffee mark this bottling of rare old grain whiskies.”  With a few more bucks in my wallet than usual, I picked up a bottle of this captivating whisky and brought it home for a taste.

 

Review

The nose is grainy, as expected.  No trace of malt whatsoever, which is slightly off-putting to me.  It’s a little harsh on the nose, and slightly reminiscent of a Canadian (I’m thinking Forty Creek).  Overall, an underwhelming experience on the nose.

If the aromas weren’t Canadian-esque to you, then surely the taste is!  The high notes are dominant here.  Hedonism is slightly nutty with some smooth, creamy vanilla.

The finish is sharp – not the greatest and certainly not all that memorable.

 

Rating & Recommendations

Hedonism falls a little short from my expecations, earning a score of 84 out of 100.

I’ve had nothing but good experiences with the expressions offered by Compass Box.  The quality may be there in the ingredients, but the taste leaves something to be desired.

 

-Ryan

Feb 02

Corsair Triple Smoke Whiskey – Review

Corsair Triple Smoke WhiskeyCorsair Small Batch Triple Smoke American Malt Whiskey

80 Proof

Price Point: $45 – $55 for 750 ML

Distiller: Corsair Artisan LLC

 

Background

If you saw my review of Angel’s Envy, you know that I am more skeptical about innovation in whiskey than most other bloggers.  I do my best to review solely on the quality of the whiskey, without letting the distillation and aging processes influence me (too much).

Corsair Triple Smoke is another whiskey that bends some of the rules.  This is an American whiskey (not considered a bourbon), which uses malt in the tradition of Scotch instead of corn and rye.

Corsair Artisan’s website defines their whiskey in this way: “We take three fractions of malted barley, each smoked by a different fuel – cherry wood, peat, and beechwood – to craft this deeply complex whiskey.  Pot distilled then barreled in new charred oak, Triple Smoke has the sweetness and barrel notes of an American Whiskey and a single malt’s rich smoke, broadened by tones of cherry and beech.”

 

Review

From the nose alone, you can quickly tell that Corsair Triple Smoke is made from malt and not corn or rye like other American whiskeys.  It has a similar bread-like nose to Bruichladdich Rocks, with a little bit of spice.  There’s a hint of peat and smoke, but only a hint despite the label.  It’s still strangely American despite its homage to Scotland.

Triple Smoke has a really nice balance of sweet and spicy, fruit and peat.  This is a very, very malty whiskey, and is very complex.  There is just the faintest hint of bourbon in the taste with perhaps a little mint (pine needle?).  I found myself tasting something new every time I picked up my glass.

The finish is relatively gentle but also lengthy; a pleasure.  There was a little bit of a “bourbon tingle” on the back-end, which I found very intriguing.

 

Rating & Recommendations

Corsair Triple Smoke has me all confused about American whiskey, but easily earned a nice rating of 87 out of 100.

The people at Corsair Artisan have implemented a nice bit of experimentation with this truly unique expression.  They certainly have the potential to gain some traction and some big fans!

 

-Ryan

Jan 26

Knob Creek Rye – Review

Knob Creek RyeKnob Creek Small Batch Rye Whiskey

100 Proof

Price Point: $35 – $45 for 750 ML

Distiller: Knob Creek Distillery

 

Background

Rye whiskeys are interesting.  In my mind, they are like the little brother to bourbon.  I enjoy drinking bourbon much more, but rye is okay once in a while to change things up.

Knob Creek Rye combines the best of both worlds.  This whiskey comes from a strong lineage of bourbons (Jim Beam products), while retaining some of the key characteristics of a small batch rye.

 

Review

This nose is strong at 100 proof!  You must breathe in slowly to enjoy the aromas of Knob Creek Rye.  There’s rich fruit (apples, pears, etc.), warm cinnamon and a touch of caramel.  To contrast the sweetness, it’s a little bitter on the back-end – as a good rye should be.

The taste is a little more standard than the nose, although this stuff is more akin to a bourbon than a rye at first taste.  The oak comes in big here making Knob Creek Rye very pleasant in the mouth.

A long and warming finish on this one.  It’s sweet; less bitter than most Beam products.

 

Rating & Recommendations

I do enjoy Knob Creek Rye, which is why I will give it an 83 out of 100.

Despite my preference of bourbons over ryes, I prefer (if only by a little bit) Knob Creek Rye to the single barrel expression.

 

-Ryan

Jan 19

Powers Gold Label Irish Whiskey – Review

Powers Gold Label Irish WhiskeyPowers Gold Label Irish Whiskey

80 Proof

Price Point: $15 – $25 for 750 ML

Distiller: John Power & Son

 

Background

Ireland has a lot of iconic brands that are known worldwide (I outline some of them in a previous post).  Powers Gold Label is one of those, and one that you may think is just another Irish whiskey not worth trying.  Even the packaging downplays the whiskey – the three birds on the label indicate that the drinker should not sip this whiskey, but rather finish the glass in “three swallows”.

 

Review

The nose is distinctively Powers – a pot still characteristic comes through strongly.  It’s not necessarily smoky; maybe charcoal?

The taste is actually pretty flavorful (surprising for an Irish, right?).  Powers is a step above the average Irish.  It’s malty, dark and deep, and pretty interesting.

This stuff is the closest Irish to a Scotch in terms of finish – bravo Powers!

 

Rating & Recommendations

I enjoy this whiskey, probably more than I thought I would, which is why I rate it a solid 82 out of 100.

Powers Gold Label is one of the better Irish whiskeys, and hardly a whiskey to finish in “three swallows”.

 

-Ryan

Jan 12

Angel’s Envy Bourbon – Review

Angel's Envy BourbonAngel’s Envy Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

86.6 Proof

Price Point: $40 – $50 for 750 ML

Distiller: Louisville Distilling Co.

 

Background

Some whiskeys receive a heck of a lot of hype simply because they are different than their brethren.  Angel’s Envy happens to be one of those whiskeys, and it receives so much attention because it is one of the few bourbons finished in a different type of cask than American Oak; in this case port casks are the finishing barrels.

I have nothing against other reviewers (and surely I am just as guilty myself), but it seems that sometimes whiskeys that are different get higher marks for that very reason.  Angel’s Envy gets nearly across-the-board good reviews from other blogs, aside from a few rare exceptions.  Let’s see where this different bourbon takes me.

 

Review

The nose has a distinct rye spiciness, more so than the average bourbon.  On top of that are black cherries, some mild banana, raisins, and a touch of almond.

A port influence is abundantly clear in the taste.  Angel’s Envy is a very refined bourbon in that there isn’t a huge burn when the liquid is in your mouth.  It tastes almost watered down (has a surprisingly thin consistency).

The finish ends abruptly, and then comes back for a short period of time.  It’s sweet and spicy all at once.

 

Rating & Recommendations

Despite all the hype around it, Angel’s Envy just doesn’t do it for me.  It earns a rating of 81 out of 100.

This was just an underwhelming whiskey despite its following and generally good reviews online.  It just seems a bit flat for would should be a very interesting whiskey.

 

-Ryan

Jan 05

Laphroaig Quarter Cask Scotch – Review

Laphroaig Quarter Cask ScotchLaphroaig Quarter Cask Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky

96 Proof

Price Point: $45 – $55 for 750 ML

Distiller: Laphroaig Distillery

 

Background

Several weeks ago, I wrote a review of Ardmore Traditional Cask, and how the distillers used smaller casks to instill more oak character into the whiskey in a shorter period of time.  The same is true for Laphroaig Quarter Cask – the whiskey is aged in, you guessed it, a cask one quarter the size of a standard barrel.  This essentially expedites the aging process, producing a more “mature” whiskey in a shorter period of time.

What I like about this whisky is that there are other “aged” expressions readily available to compare this one against, whereas the Ardmore only has the Traditional Cask expression (at least where I live).  Let’s jump into this one and see how it stacks up.

 

Review

The nose on Quarter Cask is smooth and creamy, similar to Lagavulin 16 Year Old.  There’s lots of peat but even more smoke.  This is another “campfire whisky”, like Ardbeg 10 Year Old.  The terroir of Islay is evident here with plenty of iodine and sea salt to go around.

There’s even more smoke in the mouth, but still a very creamy Scotch.  This one is not as intense as the 10 Year Old but also not as mellow and tamed as the 18 Year Old.  There’s a nice bit of oak in Quarter Cask from the secondary aging.

Like many Islay Scotches, the finish is lengthy on this one.  Good for late nights with good friends.

 

Rating & Recommendations

This is a very good Islay whisky (and a good value), earning an 88 out of 100.

Quarter Cask is my favorite Laphroaig expression above the 10 and 18 Year Old versions.

 

-Ryan

Dec 29

Laphroaig 18 Year Old Scotch – Review

Laphroaig 18 Year Old ScotchLaphroaig 18 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky

96 Proof

Price Point: $55 – $65 for 750 ML

Distiller: Laphroaig Distillery

 

Background

Age statements are interesting things.  Many times, they lead us to purchase “older” bottles to achieve status, even if it’s with ourselves.  Even the media makes it seem as if older is better.  My wife and I saw Judd Apatow’s “This is 40” last weekend, and there’s a scene where Leslie Mann’s character’s father (John Lithgow) brings a bottle to their house as a gift.  To the discernible eye, you can tell that it’s Lagavulin 16 Year Old.  But, Lithgow presents it as “a very old Scotch”, despite the fact that 16 years is not “very old” in the grand scheme of Scotch variety.

That being said, is an 18 Year Old Laphroaig better than its younger brothers?  I suppose we’ll find out…

 

Review

Right from the start, you can tell that Laphroaig 18 Year Old is much different than its younger brother.  It is much tamer than the 10 Year Old in that the peat and smoke are toned down.  There are some spicy notes present right away from the nose.

The taste is a little more intense, but still very reserved due to the aging.  In the mouth, it’s almost creamy, with a lot of vanilla to contrast the classic Islay notes.  The 18 Year Old is a little more woody than the younger expression.

The finish is very nice.  Not quite as smooth as a typical whisky of this age and proof, but nice nonetheless.

 

Rating & Recommendations

Overall, Laphroaig 18 Year Old is a good whisky, but I don’t necessarily enjoy it as much as the 10 Year Old.  I give this whisky a rating of 84 out of 100.

Fans of Islay should try this one for sure.  But, if you’re looking for peat and smoke, go ahead and save a couple bucks and invest in a bottle of Laphroaig 10 Year Old.

 

-Ryan

Dec 22

Laphroaig 10 Year Old Scotch – Review

Laphroaig 10 Year Old ScotchLaphroaig 10 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky

96 Proof

Price Point: $45 – $55 for 750 ML

Distiller: Laphroaig Distillery

 

Background

In my mind, there are two big players with multiple worthwhile (and readily available) expressions on Islay – Ardbeg and Laphroaig.  If you’ve read my past reviews, you’ll know that I rank Ardbeg 10 Year Old very high, and Ardbeg Uigeadail is still the undisputed champion of the world; at least to me.

But Laphroaig is also very intriguing, with a 10 Year Old found in most stores, along with an 18 Year Old, and both a Quarter Cask and Triple Wood available.  That makes for a nice range of whiskies to discover the diversity of Islay.  Below is my review of the most common expression…

 

Review

Laphroaig 10 Year Old smells very medicinal to start.  There’s more smoke than peat but still plenty of peat (don’t worry).  It’s also a little nutty on the nose, and perhaps a little young.

This stuff is delicious in the mouth.  This is a great entry-level representation of Islay.  Smoke is still the largest component of Laphroaig 10, but it’s also somewhat sweet and a little salty to give it a little more interest.

This one finishes very smoky, almost like a cigar.  It’s also very creamy – a great end to a great whisky.

 

Rating & Recommendations

Laphroaig 10 Year Old is a really nice whisky, and certainly a quality entry-level offering, earning an 85 out of 100.

This whisky is an instant classic, and I would definitely buy again.

 

-Ryan

Dec 15

Ardmore Traditional Cask Scotch – Review

Ardmore Traditional Cask ScotchArdmore Traditional Cask Peated Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky

92 Proof

Price Point: $45 – $55 for 750 ML

Distiller: Ardmore Distillery

 

Background

Various aging techniques (and tricks) are all the rage right now in the whiskey world. Many distillers are looking to find ways to create a more mature tasting whiskey at a cheaper price to them.  One of those ways is to reduce the size of the barrel where the whiskey rests and age it for a briefer period of time.  This is how the Laphroaig Quarter Cask and Ardmore Traditional Cask are aged.

It’s really quite simple – the smaller the barrel the more contact the whiskey will have with it, thus imparting more of its characteristics (flavor) into the liquid at a rapid rate. The individual distiller will have to weigh the costs – less time spent in the barrel versus more barrels to accommodate volume.

I have a feeling we’ll be seeing even more of the mainstream distillers adopt similar techniques in an effort to expand their portfolio and to create well-aged whiskeys at cheaper prices to the consumer.

 

Review

There’s subtle peat on the nose of Ardmore (considerably less than I anticipated from a whisky that has “Peated” on the label).  There’s light smoke, but nowhere near the intensity of an Ardbeg or Laphroaig – a completely separate style with no maritime characteristics.  This is a Highland whisky after all.

The taste is spicy, with a good amount of oak.  There’s a really nice balance of peat, and not too smoky at all.

The finish on Ardmore is pretty nice.  It tastes more mature than your average “no-age”, which is exactly the reasoning behind the quarter cask.  Decent length on the finish, too.

 

Rating & Recommendations

Ardmore Traditional Cask is a solid Scotch, earning an 84 out of 100.

This is definitely an above average whisky, but when I am looking for big peat flavor, I’ll venture to the West and explore Islay.

 

-Ryan